If you’re planning a visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina, there’s one city that should absolutely be on your list: Sarajevo. With its layered history, East-meets-West atmosphere, and deep culinary roots, Sarajevo is a city that leaves a lasting impression—not just through what you see, but through what you taste.
In this post, I’m diving into Sarajevo’s fascinating past, its blend of food influences, and a very special type of restaurant called an aščinica. I’ll also share a few dishes you have to try when you’re here—like sogan dolma, bamija, and the ever-popular simit.
A City Shaped by Empires: A Quick Look at Sarajevo’s History
Sarajevo is often called the Jerusalem of Europe, and for good reason. It’s one of the few places in the world where you can find a mosque, a church, a synagogue, and an Orthodox cathedral all within walking distance. This diversity is rooted in its rich, complicated history.
The city was founded by the Ottomans in the 15th century, and their architectural and cultural influence is still visible today—especially in the old town, Baščaršija, where cobblestone streets and Ottoman-era buildings transport you back in time. Later, Sarajevo came under Austro-Hungarian rule, adding layers of European architecture and culture. The city was also the site of a pivotal moment in world history—the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914, which sparked World War I.
Today, Sarajevo is a resilient, vibrant place that continues to embrace its multicultural roots—and nowhere is that more evident than in its food.
Sarajevo’s Food Scene: A Mix of East and West
The cuisine in Sarajevo is a reflection of the city’s diverse past. You’ll find Ottoman influences in its use of spices, slow-cooked stews, and stuffed vegetables, while Central European elements appear in baked goods and breads. There’s a strong culture of home-style cooking, with many restaurants serving meals that feel like they came from someone’s grandmother’s kitchen.
One of the best ways to sample traditional Bosnian food is by visiting an aščinica.
What is an Aščinica?
An aščinica (pronounced ash-chee-nee-tsa) is a type of casual, cafeteria-style eatery that specializes in traditional, slow-cooked Bosnian comfort food. The name comes from the Turkish word aşçı, meaning cook. In an aščinica, you don’t order off a menu—you go up to the counter and choose from whatever is freshly prepared that day.
These humble spots are favorites among locals and often offer excellent value for money. Think of it as a Bosnian version of a homestyle buffet—but with a whole lot more heart and flavor.
What to Try at an Aščinica in Sarajevo
Here are three dishes I tried on my recent visit that you won’t want to miss:
🧅 Sogan Dolma – Stuffed Onions
Sogan dolma is a dish that truly captures the spirit of Bosnian home cooking. Onions are carefully hollowed out and stuffed with a savory mixture of minced meat, rice, and spices, then simmered in a rich tomato-based sauce until everything is meltingly tender. It’s hearty, satisfying, and full of flavor.
🍲 Bamija – Okra Stew
This lesser-known dish deserves more attention! Bamija (or bamya) is a slow-cooked okra stew, usually made with beef or lamb, tomato, and a touch of lemon. The okra becomes soft and silky in the stew, soaking up all the flavors. It’s a warming, tangy dish with a unique texture that you’ll either love instantly—or come to love over time.
🥯 Simit – The Bosnian Take on a Sesame Bread Ring
If you’ve never had simit, it can be best described as a cousin of the bagel. Those of you have travelled through Turkey might have seen it there, but the one in Sarajevo can often be slightly different in texture and preparation. It’s a chewy, sesame-covered bread ring, perfect for grabbing on the go or having it for a quick breakfast with a Bosnian cup of coffee.
Final Thoughts
Sarajevo is a city that tells its story through food. Every bite of sogan dolma or spoonful of bamija is a small piece of history passed down through generations. If you’re lucky enough to find a local aščinica—take a seat, grab a tray, and dive into the flavors of Bosnia.
And if you want to see these dishes in action, don’t miss my video from Sarajevo, where I visit a cozy aščinica and try these traditional meals firsthand. You’ll find the link below—come hungry!